Sun & Sunscreen:

SPF

Sunscreen is one mode of protection from the sun.  We often judge a sunscreen purely by its SPF strength but it is important to note that SPF is an indication of the sunscreen’s UVB protection and it does not account for UVA ray protection.

As discussed below, SPF chemical filters have been linked to health issues therefore, higher SPF sunscreens may have greater overall health risks.  When applied correctly, sunscreens of SPF 30 offer adequate protection even for people most sensitive to sunburn.  Research shows that there is very little difference between SPF protection of 30 and 50 as shown below:

SPF of 15 provides 93% protection

SPF of 30 provides 97% protection,

SPF 50 provides 98% protection

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) even recommends manufacturers stop selling high SPF products.  Australian authorities have already put a cap on SPF values at 30.

 UVA Protection

As we saw above, it is also important to protect ourselves from UVA rays.  The European Commission’s regulations indicate that the UVA protection must be at least one third of the UVB.  In the US and Canada no regulations exist to control the UVA protection.  Studies on the matter demonstrate that on average, European brands for 50+ products have three times the UVA protection than the American brands.  For this reason, it is much more difficult to buy a full spectrum sunscreen in the US and Canada compared to other places in the world such as Australia, Europe and Asia.

Ingredients in Sunscreen

Two types of ingredients exist in sunscreen: physical UV filters and chemical UV filters.

1. Physical UV filters (or inorganic or mineral filters) sit on top of the skin without being absorbed by the organism. The EWG rates mineral sunscreen (containing zinc oxide and or titanium dioxide) higher than chemical sunscreen, mainly because there is little evidence that these go through the skin barrier.  They are NOT absorbed by our body like the chemical UV filters. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the only two ingredients broadly considered as safe by the EWG.  However, these mineral ingredients show a few major problems:

1. They are white, pasty and do not spread well therefore not very aesthetically appealing and simply not suitable for non-Caucasians
2. According to some consumer testing they do not provide adequate protection from UVA or UVB rays
3. Zinc oxide will be banned in 2022 due to its negative effects on the environment
4. Note that these should be avoided in sprays or powders as they cannot be inhaled

2. Chemical UV filters (organic filters) work by absorbing UV radiation and converting them into safer radiation. These chemicals can stay in our bodies and little is known about the systemic exposure to these ingredients. Their major health concerns relate to disruption of the endocrine (hormonal) system as well as possible allergic reactions. Certain chemical UV filters have also been shown to be damaging to the environment and are banned in certain states and countries.  It is important to, as a minimum, read the ingredients label when shopping for sunscreen and avoid the  following five ingredients:

5 Ingredients to Avoid

1. Oxybenzone
2. Octinoxate
3. Octocrylene
4. Retinyl Palmitate
5. Fragrances (Phtalates)

Oxybenzone

This is the most worrisome sunscreen active ingredient according to the EWG.  They recommend consumers avoid sunscreens with oxybenzone.  The European Commission found current human exposure levels to be unsafe and proposed a concentration restriction of 2.2 percent (SCCS 2020) – lower than the limited amount allowed in U.S. sunscreens, which is up to 6 percent.  

It is also an endocrine (hormone) disruptor. In adolescent boys with higher levels of oxybenzone in their system, they were shown to have lower levels of testosterone.  Female exposure is related to higher risks of endometriosis and breast cancer.  Many other hormonal consequences are associated with this chemical.

Oxybenzone is also infamously known for being banned in many parts of the world including Hawaii, the Florida keys, Palau, Virgin Islands and Aruba.  Several studies, including the Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, have shown that oxybenzone, when washed off our skins, have the potential to destroy coral reef ecosystems.

Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate)

Octinoxate has also been shown to disrupt the hormonal system, more specifically but not inclusively, thyroid hormone production and the metabolic system.  It also may be harmful to aquatic life.

Octocrylene

Est facilement absorbé par la peau à des niveaux 14 fois supérieurs à l'exposition systémique de référence de la FDA. Bien qu'il y ait eu des preuves du potentiel de perturbation endocrinienne de l'octocrylène, l'Union européenne a conclu que les concentrations d'utilisation actuelles jusqu'à 10 % étaient considérées comme sûres. Il est souvent contaminé par le benzophénone, un cancérogène connu, et ses niveaux peuvent augmenter lors du stockage, donc une attention supplémentaire est nécessaire ici pour respecter la durée de conservation du produit.

Il a également été démontré qu'il nuit potentiellement à la santé des coraux.

Retinyl Palmitate

This derivative of vitamin A is used in many skin products including sunscreen and cosmetics.  The idea behind this is that vitamin A is good for the skin and manufacturers believe it slows skin ageing.  The problem with retinyl palmitate is that it may speed the development of skin tumors and lesions when applied to the skin in the presence of sunlight.   Want a safe alternative? Eat dark green and orange vegetables; remember the beauty of your skin comes from the inside.  It is not so much what you put on your skin but what you eat and drink that has a powerful impact on your skin’s health.

Fragrances

Fragrances may contain phthalates, chemicals linked to reproductive problems as well as asthma.